Frequently Asked Questions

Customer Service

  • Policies, Procedures, Ordering, & Returning
    Customer Service Hours of Operation

    Our Customer Service staff serves our website and catalog customers. We're here to answer questions or help with orders via email, phone (888-401-1900), or fax (800-526-7329) on the following days and hours, Pacific Time:

    • Monday to Friday 6:00 am - 6:00 pm PT
    • Saturday 7:00 am - 5pm PT
    • Sunday 9:00 am to 3:00 pm PT

    Customer Service is closed on Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day.

    What Kinds of Discounts are Available?

    As a manufacturer and retailer who sells direct, Rejuvenation strives for fair pricing in order to stay competitive and affordable for all customers.

    Note: Architects, contractors, designers, and other members of the Trades, please email Customer Service or call 888-401-1900.

    Our Warranty

    All of the products we sell online are guaranteed for two (2) years after receipt against defects in materials and workmanship. (See our Returns and Exchanges policy for policy on returns due to other reasons.)

    Our light fixtures are UL listed and will provide many years of safe operation if used with the proper type of bulb that is within the maximum allowable wattage. We do not guarantee against damage caused by improper light bulbs.

    "Bad" light bulbs to avoid using in our fixtures include regular (Type A) bulbs in higher wattages or smaller sizes than we state as allowable, and "decorator" or "flame" bulbs, which are intended to be used in a "pointed up" position (bulb base down) and sometimes burn inefficiently, i.e., very hot.

    Here's the full text of our company-wide warranty:

    Rejuvenation Inc.

    Limited Warranty

    What our warranty covers:

    Rejuvenation Inc.'s limited warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship in selected products that are sold to Rejuvenation Inc. customers.

    This warranty lasts for a period of two (2) years after the receipt of products from Rejuvenation Inc.

    Rejuvenation Inc. will repair or replace, at its option, the defective products.

    What our warranty does not cover:

    • Vintage or salvage goods, which are sold as is.
    • Consumable goods, such as (but not limited to) light bulbs, candles, paint strippers, finish restorers and the like.
    • Damage to light fixtures or shades caused by the improper use of light bulbs (details above).
    • Changes in the look of unlacquered brass and oil-rubbed bronze finishes.
    • Damage to finishes caused by improper cleaning, maintenance, or exposure to weather or other corrosive elements.
    • Fading, pilling and shrinkage of fabric, or damage to fabrics caused by after-market stain repellants and cleaning products.
    • Natural variations in texture and color of upholstery.
    • Normal wear and tear, as well as weather-related damage.
    • Incidental or consequential damages. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so this limitation may not apply to you.
    • Cost of removal and re-installation.

    If you have a product that falls within the warranty terms outlined above, please contact us:

    by phone: 888-401-1900

    by email:

    by mail: Warranty Service Rejuvenation Inc. N.W. Nicolai Street Portland, Oregon 97210

    by fax: 503-525-7329

    in person: at our retail stores.

    We will discuss the nature of the problem with you and determine the best course of action. If we ask you to return the product to us for inspection, we will contact you within ten (10) working days of receiving the product with an evaluation of your claim, and intended remedies.

    How does state law apply?

    This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights that vary from state to state.

    Other coverage

    If a Rejuvenation Inc. vendor provides warranty coverage beyond the above, Rejuvenation Inc. will facilitate warranty service under the vendor's terms and conditions.

    How long will it take to receive my order?

    Most configured products take 3-4 weeks to build, plus shipping lead times. A few popular fixtures, and many hardware pieces and décor items are stocked and can ship in 3-4 days.

    Please allow an additional two to ten business days for shipping, depending on your distance from our factory in Oregon.

    For more information see shipping & delivery.


    Please see our full policy on returns & exchanges.

    When do you charge my credit card?

    We don't charge your card until your order is packed and ready to ship.

    We start building your fixtures to your specifications as soon as we receive your order.

    If everything you've ordered is on the shelf, we process your credit card and ship the order same day, on average.

    If anything prevents us from starting on your order immediately, we'll contact you prior to processing your card.

    Please allow an additional two to ten days for shipping time, depending on your distance from our factory here in Oregon.

    Do you charge sales tax?

    State laws require us to charge CA, CT, ,FL, IA, IL, GA, MA, MD, ME, MI, MN, ND, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, SD, TX, VT, WA and WI State residents sales tax on each order total (products + shipping and handling charges).

    Currently, we do not charge sales tax for orders shipped to any other states.

    What are the Terms and Conditions for Rejuvenation's Promotions?

    All promotional pricing is as marked on the website unless promotion requires use of a promotion code; if a promo code is required as part of a promotion, promotional pricing will be reflected during checkout once an eligible promo code is entered and accepted.

    Offers cannot be applied to prior purchases and cannot be combined. If your purchase is eligible for multiple offers, you will receive the greater discount of the multiple offers but offers will not be combined or stacked.

    Some of our promotion terms and conditions vary by promotion type, as summarized (but not limited to) the types below.

    Promo Ts and Cs by Promotional Type:

    • Category percent off promotions (e.g. X% off lighting, X% off clearance, etc.) apply only to select products as designated on the website. Offers cannot be applied to prior purchases. No promotion code is required on category percent off promotions; pricing is as indicated on the website. Offer may not be combined with any other coupons, discounts or offers.
    • Sitewide percent off promotions apply only to eligible products. Offers are not valid on Appliances . Offer cannot be applied to prior purchases. Designated promotion code must be entered at checkout to receive the designated discount on your order. Promotion code may not be combined with any other coupons, discounts or offers.
    • Free shipping and processing promotions apply to eligible products. Offer not valid on Furniture, Bathtubs, Sinks, Large Rugs, Appliances and Select Salvage. Delivery surcharges still apply. Offer cannot be applied to prior purchases. Rush shipping is not eligible. Designated promotion code must be entered at checkout to receive free shipping on your order. Promotion code may not be combined with any other coupons, discounts or offers.

    If you have questions about a specific promotion's Ts and Cs, please call customer service at 888-401-1900 or email

  • Site Help
    Ordering Online - in Brief

    Lighting: You can purchase our lighting "as shown" or, in most cases, customize it to match your specific needs.

    • As Shown: If you want your fixture exactly as it's shown in the photograph, simply fill in the the quantity you want and click "Add to Cart".
    • Make Changes: To customize your fixture, click on any of the choices under "Product Configuration Options" in the middle of the page. You'll be offered choices for finish, shades, overall length, or other options. Once you've decide how you want it built, choose the quantity and click "Add to Cart".

    Hardware: Choose from metal finishes that complement our lighting. Some hardware, like our Interior and Exterior Door Sets, have even more options to choose from.

    Special Care Orders: Expedited shipping, shipments to Canada, and special customization features (i.e. non-standard metal finishes, alternate canopies) can be ordered offline through Customer Service. Email or call 888-401-1900.

    Finally, the FAQ contains a wealth of ordering and product info. If you don't find what you need there, Customer Service can help.

    Privacy Policy

    Your privacy is important to us, and we want you to feel comfortable with what information we share, and when and why we share it. Of course, we always want you to know you can opt out of sharing your information at any time. The lowdown is all right here...

    Terms & Conditions

    Welcome to ("Web Site")! We are part of "Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands" which includes Williams-Sonoma®, Pottery Barn®, pottery barn kids®, PBteen®, west elm® and Rejuvenation®.

    Please take a few minutes to review these Terms and Conditions. Your purchase of products from us constitutes your agreement to follow these Terms and Conditions and to be bound by them.

    These Terms and Conditions May Change

    Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands reserves the right to update or modify these Terms and Conditions at any time without prior notice. For this reason, we encourage you to review these Terms and Conditions whenever you purchase products from us or use our Web Site.

    Use of Our Web Site

    User Comments

    We welcome your comments about our Web Site. However, any comments, feedback, notes, messages, ideas, suggestions or other communications (collectively "Comments") sent to our Web Site shall be and remain the exclusive property of Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands. Your submission of any such Comments shall constitute an assignment to Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands of all worldwide rights, titles and interests in all copyrights and other intellectual property rights in the Comments. Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands will be entitled to use, reproduce, disclose, publish and distribute any material you submit for any purpose whatsoever, without restriction and without compensating you in any way. For this reason, we ask that you not send us any comments that you do not wish to assign to us, including any confidential information or any original creative materials such as stories, product ideas, computer code or original artwork.

    Hyperlinks to other Web Sites

    To the extent our Web Site contains hyperlinks to outside services and resources, the availability and content of which Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands does not control, any concerns regarding any such service or resource, or any hyperlink thereto, should be directed to the particular outside service or resource.


    This Web Site and all Content available on this Web Site are provided on an "as is" basis without warranties of any kind, either express or implied, including without limitation warranties of title or implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. You acknowledge, by your use of this Web Site, that your use of this Web Site is at your sole risk, that you assume full responsibility for all costs associated with all necessary servicing or repairs of any equipment you use in connection with your use of this Web Site, and that Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands shall not be liable for any damages of any kind related to your use of this Web Site.

    Product Pricing Information

    The prices displayed on our Web Site may differ from prices that are available in stores. The prices displayed in our catalogs are quoted in U.S. Dollars and are valid and effective only in the U.S.

    Inaccuracy Disclaimer

    From time to time there may be information on our Web Site or in our catalog that contains typographical errors, inaccuracies, or omissions that may relate to product descriptions, pricing, and availability. Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions and to change or update information at any time without prior notice (including after you have submitted your order).

    * * * * * * * * * *

    Any action relating to the use of the Web Site, catalogs or any transaction with Williams-Sonoma, Inc. must be brought in the state or federal courts located in the County of San Francisco, California.

    Last Updated: November 2011

    Privacy Policy

    We are part of "Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands" which includes Williams-Sonoma, Pottery Barn, pottery barn kids, PBteen, west elm and Rejuvenation. Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands are committed to respecting your privacy and recognizing your need for appropriate protection and management of contact information you share with us (the phrase "contact information" means any information by which you can be contacted, such as your name, mailing address, email address, telephone number, etc.). The purpose of this Privacy Policy is to inform you what information we may collect from you, how we use such information, and the choices you have regarding our use of, and your ability to review, correct and opt out of our use of, the information. By using any of our web sites or sharing your contact information with us, you are accepting the practices described in this Privacy Policy.

    As a part of our commitment to your privacy, Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands support and adhere to the guidelines and practices adopted by the Direct Marketing Association's "Privacy Promise to American Consumers." We have agreed to (1) provide customers with notice of their ability to opt out of information rental, sale, or exchange with other marketers; (2) honor customers' requests not to share their contact information with other marketers; and (3) honor customers' requests not to receive mail, telephone, or other solicitations from Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands.

    Collecting Information About You

    There may be times (such as when you purchase or order a product, subscribe to a service, register to receive catalogs, or to participate in contests, sweepstakes or promotions, etc.) when we ask you to provide certain contact information about yourself, such as your name, shipping/billing address, telephone number, email address, credit card information, birth date, gender, occupation, personal interests, and other information. We may also maintain a record of your product purchases.

    Whether or not to provide such information is completely your own choice. But if you choose not to provide the information we request, you may be unable to purchase products, or access certain services, offers and content on our web sites. In addition, we may need to contact you via phone, email or mail to address questions or issues specific to your order, entry, etc., even if you have opted to not receive marketing communications from us.

    In general, you can visit many of our web pages without telling us who you are or revealing any contact information about yourself. We may track the Internet domain address from which people visit us and analyze this data for preferences, trends, and site usage statistics, but individual users will remain anonymous, unless you voluntarily tell us who you are.

    Using Information About You

    We use your contact information for internal purposes only, such as:

    • confirming and tracking your order, subscription, or registration;
    • analyzing preferences, trends, and statistics;
    • informing you of our new products, services, and offers; and
    • providing you with other information from and about Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands.

    We process your contact information only in ways compatible with the purposes for which it was collected or authorized by you. To the extent necessary for such purposes, we take reasonable steps to make sure that your contact information is accurate, complete, current, and otherwise reliable with regard to its intended use.

    From time to time we might establish a business relationship with other persons or entities whom we believe trustworthy and whom we have asked to confirm that their privacy policies are consistent with ours. These are known as our Select Partners. In such cases we might rent, exchange, share and/or cross-reference information, including contact information about you that will enable such persons or entities to contact you regarding products and services that may be of interest to you.

    To serve you better, we may combine information you give us online, in our stores or through our catalogs. We may also combine that information with publicly available information and information we receive from or cross-reference with our Select Partners and others. We use that combined information to enhance and personalize the shopping experience of you and others with us, to communicate with you about our products and events that may be of interest to you, and for other promotional purposes.

    We may contract with companies or persons to provide certain services including credit card processing, shipping, data management, promotional services, etc. We call them our Service Providers. We provide our Service Providers with the information needed for them to perform these services. We also ask our Service Providers to confirm that their privacy practices are consistent with ours.

    We allow third-party companies to serve ads and/or collect certain anonymous information when you visit our web sites. These companies may use non-personally identifiable information (e.g., click stream information, browser type, time and date, subject of advertisements clicked or scrolled over) during your visits to this and other web sites in order to provide advertisements about goods and services likely to be of interest to you. These companies typically use a cookie or third party web beacon to collect this information. To learn more about this behavioral advertising practice or to opt-out of this type of advertising, you can visit

    In certain instances we may disclose your contact information when we have reason to believe that it is necessary to identify, contact or bring legal action against persons or entities who may be causing injury to you, to Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands or to others. We may also disclose your contact information when we believe the law or legal process requires it.

    Opting Out Of Marketing And Transfers; Updating and Deleting Information About You

    We want to communicate with you only if you want to hear from us. If you prefer not to receive direct marketing from us or from our Select Partners, or if you would like to opt out of our rental or exchange of your information with other marketers, please let us know. You can call us at 888.343.8548 or send us an email at Please be sure to include your full name, email address, mailing address, and specifically what information you do not want to receive. If you would like to update or correct your email address, mailing address or other contact information with us please contact us the same way. If you like, you may use either of the following statements in your message to us:

    • "I prefer not to receive email advertisements, such as updates regarding products and services, special promotions or upcoming events."
    • "I prefer not to receive direct mail advertisements, such as periodic catalogs and mailings regarding products and services, special promotions or upcoming events."

    You may also click the designated link at the bottom of all email advertisements to be removed from future email updates.

    Please note that any requests to remove or update your contact information may take up to ten days for your email request and 6-8 weeks to process your postal mail request.


    When you visit our web sites, we send one or more "cookies" to your computer or other device. We may also use cookies in emails that you receive from us. A "cookie" is a small data file that is placed on the hard drive of your computer when you visit a web site. A "session cookie" expires immediately when you end your session (i.e., close your browser). A "persistent cookie" stores information on the hard drive so when you end your session and return to the same web site at a later date the cookie information is still available. Generally, we use cookies to improve the quality of our service when you visit our web site and other web sites of interest to you. We also use cookies to remind us of who you are, tailor our products, services and advertising to suit the personal interests of you and others, estimate our audience size, assist our online merchants to track visits to and sales at our web sites and to process your order, track your status in our promotions, contests and sweepstakes, and/or analyze your visiting patterns.

    Certain of our Service Providers may use cookies and collect information on our behalf. They are prohibited by our contract with them from sharing that information with anyone other than us or our other Service Providers. However, we respect your right to choose whether to be included in such services. You may opt out of certain of these services by clicking here. In addition, in connection with the services that they provide to us, certain of our Service Providers may work with third parties who may use cookies to collect anonymous information to tailor advertising for you and others elsewhere on the Internet. These third parties do not have access to any contact information about you. If you would like to opt out of accepting cookies altogether, you can generally set your browser to not accept cookies or to notify you when you are sent a cookie, giving you the chance to decide whether or not to accept it. However, certain features of our web sites or other services may not work if you delete or disable cookies.


    We maintain physical, electronic, and procedural safeguards to protect the confidentiality and security of information transmitted to us. To guard your information delivered to us electronically, our web sites use Secure Sockets Layer (SSL). SSL encrypts your credit card number, name and address so only we are able to decode your information. Unfortunately, however, no data transmission over the Internet can be guaranteed to be 100% secure. As a result, while we strive to protect your contact information, we cannot guarantee or warrant the security of any information you transmit to or from our web sites, and you do so at your own risk.

    We urge you to keep any password that you establish with us in a safe place and not to divulge it to anyone. Also remember to log off your account and close your browser window when you have finished your visit. This is to ensure that others cannot access your account, especially if you are sharing a computer with someone else or are using a computer in a public place such as a library or Internet cafe.

    Protecting Children

    Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Brands take special care to protect the safety and privacy of children. Our web sites are general audience sites. We do not permit anyone under the age of 13 to register with us. We also do not send email correspondence to anyone who tells us that they are under the age of 13.

    Children under the age of 13 should always ask their parents or guardians for permission before providing any contact information to anyone online. We urge parents and guardians to participate in their children's online activities and use parental control or other web filtering technology to supervise children's access to the Internet.

    Links to Third Party Sites

    Our web sites may contain links to web sites operated and maintained by third parties, over which we have no control. Privacy policies on such linked sites may be different from our privacy policy. You access such linked sites at your own risk. You should always read the privacy policy of a linked site before disclosing any of your information on such site.

    Policy Changes

    If we decide to change our privacy policy in whole or in part, we will inform you by posting a notice on our web sites, as applicable. Those changes will go into effect on the effective date posted in the notice and at the end of the revised Privacy Policy. The new policy will apply to all current and past users of our web sites and will replace any prior policies that are inconsistent. Your continued use of our web sites or other services constitutes your acceptance of the practices described in the revised Privacy Policy.

    Your Feedback

    To help us improve our privacy policy and practice, please give us your feedback. You can call us at 888.343.8548 or send us an email at Email.

    Effective Date: November 2011

    Legal Statement

    Copyright 2011 Williams-Sonoma, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

    Rejuvenation® is a registered trademark of Williams-Sonoma, Inc.

    All of the Content on this website is subject to copyright, trademark, service mark, trade dress and other intellectual property rights or licenses held by Williams-Sonoma, Inc. Your use of the trademarks, service marks, trade dress and copyrighted material displayed on this website is strictly prohibited. You may download, print and store selected portions of the Content, provided you (1) only use these copies of the Content for your own personal, non-commercial use, (2) do not copy or post the Content on any network computer or broadcast the Content in any media, and (3) do not modify or alter the Content in any way, or delete or change any copyright or trademark notice. No right, title or interest in any downloaded materials is transferred to you as a result of any such downloading. Williams-Sonoma, Inc. reserves complete title and full intellectual property rights in any Content you download from this Web site. Except as noted above, you may not copy, download, reproduce, modify, publish, distribute, transmit, transfer or create derivative works from the Content. One or more patents may apply to this Web site, including without limitation, U.S. Patent Nos. 5,528,490; 5,761,649; and 6,029,142.

  • Other Questions
    Is this light too big, too small, or just right?

    Tip: With large, wide fixtures, like the Nob Hill, South Shore, and others, we recommend you give careful attention to lighting specifications when gauging scale and impact. Simply put, big fixtures like these look and fit best in large, open rooms.

    Returns and Exchanges

    Please see our full policy on returns & exchanges.

    Are Lighting Installation Instructions Online?

    Yes. Installation instructions for each wall and ceiling light are online for you to print at home, if needed. Instructions for each fixture also come packaged with your order.

    Look for the "Installation Instructions" link on each fixture's individual page.

    Are These Real Reproductions of Antique Lighting?


    We manufacture a wide variety of period-authentic, reproduction lighting styles, and all are well-researched historic reproductions. Lighting identified with the Rejuvenation shopmark we build and finish in our Portland, Oregon factory. These fixtures are exclusively ours.

    There are many types of antique lighting "originals." Some were handmade works of art - elegant both in design and construction - and found only in the finest homes and mansions. The majority of antique lighting, however, was built for the middle and working classes.

    Here's a fact we enjoy: Not only do we supply reproduction lighting to some of the most historic and famous homes and buildings in the country, we also do the same for thousands of humble Bungalows and urban apartments.

    These are some of the qualities that make our lighting "real" reproductions of antique lighting originals:

    • Traditional Construction. We build our lighting just the way original antique lighting was built - by hand.
    • Materials. We build them from the same materials as the originals. Most of our lighting is brass, some are porcelain and some are part aluminum (see our Streamline, Atomic Age, and Art Deco styles). Some materials are even better than the originals: Our brass pipe and tubing is actually thicker and heavier than that found in most antique lighting.
    • No Easy Shortcuts. Original gas lights, for example, couldn't hang on chain (gas can't travel through a chain). So we make them with pipes and work with you to get the length just right for your ceiling.
    • Original Moulds and Tooling. We often recreate antique lighting parts and glassware with the original, vintage tooling - which helps us produce a superior reproduction of antique lighting originals. A majority of the glass shades we offer are made from original glass moulds we either own or have duplicated from the originals.
    • Document Lighting. Many of our lights are "documents" of antique lighting models. That means we've taken an original and exactly duplicated every part. Others are typical of a certain type, but are not "document." For example, the Wilshire is document, but the Jackson Park is not.
    How do Rejuvenation fixtures differ from the originals?

    While there are several differences, we make them as subtle as possible:

    • Metal thickness. Despite common preconceptions, the majority of late-19th-century and 20th-century lighting was made with brass spinnings and stampings that were very thin. Ours are usually thicker than their original counterparts.
    • Modern wiring. Some changes from originals are necessary to accommodate modern wiring. Most of our customers are mounting to newer wiring instead of knob and tube. We have to make a few changes, such as larger canopies on some of our wall brackets, so junction boxes will be covered.
    • Underwriter Laboratories safety labels. All our fixtures are individually subjected to high-voltage testing. Most required modifications you won't see; a few you will. Current regulations require that fixtures have a continuous ground. Therefore, you'll see ground wires on chain fixtures. To supply UL-listed floor and table lamps, we can't use the old cloth-covered wire, which is not UL-approved.
    • Sturdier sockets. We like to use porcelain sockets in places where the originals might have had a paper-shell socket. Exceptions to this are on fixtures which have turnkey sockets.
    • Electric, not gas. Obviously, our fully electrified gas-style fixtures have had small modifications to make them work with electricity. We try to make those modifications in the most subtle ways possible.
    • Spot welding. Most old lanterns were fabricated by soldering pieces of sheet brass together. Often the solder eventually failed. We spot weld (a better method), since we have the advantage of 90 years' worth of hindsight.
    Do you sell lamp parts?

    We are not in the business of selling lamp parts, and we don't publish a lamp-parts catalog.

    What if I don't have a wall switch?

    Switch options for most fixtures are available online during ordering. Just select an optional brass rotary or pull-chain switch, and we'll set it into the fixture's canopy (see drawings).

    Some fixtures, like the Pacific City, have a turnkey switch on the socket, just like the old ones.

    Tip: Wall fixtures can use either kind of switch, but we suggest pull-chain switches for ceiling fixtures.

    Questions? Email or call Customer Service toll-free at 888-401-1900.

    Which Switch

    How can I obtain enough light from my ceiling fixture?

    Customers of old-time lighting companies could specify how many arms they wanted on their ceiling fixtures, and at Rejuvenation, so can you.

    For example, you can order antique reproductions like the Irvington, Council Crest, and Kilpatrick with 2, 3, or 4 arms in your choice of length, shade, finish, and other options.

    Arm choices mean that you can use a 2-arm chandelier in a small kitchen, and a 4-arm version of that same fixture in a large dining room. Customize your lighting according to your needs and tastes.

    Tip: Don't let the photos limit your imagination, and don't fret over your choices. The Build-to-Order web tool presents you with a computer-generated rendering of your fixture.

    Why are socket switches found on some fixtures and not on others?

    In an effort to be as authentic as possible, many of our Mission fixtures with square 2-1/4in. shade-holders are supplied with old-fashioned sockets and phenolic turnkey switches.

    Most others are supplied with keyless (no switch) porcelain sockets. If you prefer the more durable porcelain sockets, you may select them at no charge.

    There are a few exceptions. The "exposed" turnkey sockets found in some Victorian fixtures, and a few Period Basics (e.g. the Burnside) won't accommodate a porcelain socket without significantly altering the fixture's appearance.

    Therefore, alterations to exposed sockets must be done via Customer Service.

    What's the difference between a porcelain socket and a turnkey switch socket?

    A porcelain socket tends to be more durable. However, it doesn't have a built-in switch, and doesn't automatically increase the wattage capabilities of the fixture.

    A turnkey socket is an old-fashioned brass-and-paper socket. It combines an authentic vintage feel with the practicality of a switch. Yes, they are UL approved and perfectly safe (provided the wattage is not exceeded, and specialty bulbs are properly installed).

    At the turn of the 19th century, these sockets were "exposed" and often used a clamp-on fitter to hold a shade (e.g. Forest Grove). A few years later, the sockets were covered by square- or bell-shaped fitters - which could accommodate the switch and hold the shade (e.g. Pacific City).

    What about trademarks?

    Rejuvenation, Rejuve, Burnside, Cottage Grove, East Bank, Jefferson, Lombard, Madison Avenue, Moreland, Pacific City, Park Avenue, Rose City, Salem, Sherwood, St. Helens, and Three Forks are considered trademarks of Rejuvenation.

    House Parts – a definition

    "House Parts" is our name for hardware and other old-house-inspired stuff - all built with the same quality as our lighting fixtures.

    Our goal is to fill a niche for tasteful, functional, and authentic hardware and other old-house accessories - and to do so with affordable prices. Considering the period-style merchandise generally available, we feel like we're staking out new territory.

    On one end of the spectrum, there's imported and cheaply made brass hardware. Quality is typically poor (uneven at best), functionality and durability are afterthoughts, good taste is absent, and the finish is almost always only polished brass with a lacquer over it. The price - maybe - is good.

    On the other end, many businesses have sprung up that do beautiful work reproducing old-house specialties. But as artisans who essentially create their good work by hand, they offer products that often cost more than most folks can afford.

    We think we've found the middle ground.

    Does Rejuvenation Sell Ceiling Fans?

    Yes! We are proud to offer two families of ceiling fans, the Heron and the Peregrine, both of which are available with or without lighting kits, in four combinations of finishes.

    Why should I choose schoolhouse-style lighting?

    One of the great qualities of old houses is how richly eclectic they can be. Whether furnished in bohemian or period-specific style, old house interiors gracefully welcome all interests.

    Schoolhouse lighting is a lot like that, too. In fact, without shades, a schoolhouse fixture is like a blank canvas, awaiting your paintbrush.

    However you express yourself, you'll find combinations that please the eye and complement your decor. Get creative, and build your schoolhouse lighting online.

    Why a "shades-up" lighting option?

    The Raleigh, Irvington, and Wilshire are shown in the catalog shades-down, but they are also available in shades-up versions online by the names Gordon, Orville, and Madrona respectively.

    Shades-down and shades-up options date back to early gas lighting.

    Early American gas-style fixtures provided light via flames, and were built shades-up only (for obvious safety reasons).

    When electric lighting came along, the light bulbs of the time were comparatively dim. Manufacturers compensated by building fixtures shades-down, so their customers would have their precious (and weak) sources of light pointing where they'd be the most effective.

    Around 1910, advances in carbon filament technology had made light bulbs brighter and more efficient, and lighting companies responded by making up-cast shades again - not only because they could, but because it was by now a familiar look that hearkened back to the days of early gas lighting.

    What is a "deep projection" wall bracket, and why would I need one?

    Wall brackets installed above or beside surface mount medicine cabinets may require extra room.

    Can I use your lights on sloped/vaulted ceilings?

    For an additional charge, most single-pole pendant lighting (like the Rose City) can be built to accommodate sloped ceilings.

    Fixtures which hang from a single chain, like the Imperial, automatically adjust to sloped ceilings, so no vault mount is needed. However, be sure to tell us that you're installing a chain fixture on a sloped ceiling, so that we can adjust the fixture length accordingly.

    Multi-armed bowl lights like the Caruthers can be modified, but it's a very different vault mechanism from the ones pictured above, and it isn't available online. In fact, it changes the fixture's appearance so much that we think most folks would be much happier with pendant lighting instead. Still curious? Email or call Customer Service at 888-401-1900 for information.

    Tip: When ordering vaulted ceiling fixtures at a specific overall length, expect up to a 1in. variance in overall length due to the varying pitches of sloped ceilings.

    Can I shorten or lengthen your lighting myself?

    A number of our fixtures can be shortened prior to installation, with varying degrees of difficulty. However, you should know that mechanically altering a light will void its warranty.

    If you are still willing to assume the risk, we've separated these alterations into two categories, below. Please proceed with caution. Rejuvenation is not responsible for fixture damages in any way.

    For Confident, Careful, Handy Do-It-Yourselfers Or Their Contractors:

    Chain Link Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Fernhill. Remove the unwanted chain links with a chain spreader, pull the extra wire through the ceiling canopy, and trim the wire.

    Single-Pole Pendant Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Coronado, which hang from one rigid length of tubing. Remove the ceiling canopy, disassemble as needed to pull the wire out from the allthread, and use a hacksaw to cut the tubing and allthread pipe. Do not cut the allthread pipe with the wire still inside.

    Better Left To Your Local Lamp Repair Shop:

    Pendant Lighting with Loop-to-Loop connections: e.g., fixtures like the Brightwood. Tricky for DIY alterations. Ask a local lamp repair shop (and make sure they guarantee their work).

    Multiple-pole Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Jantzen. Quite difficult to alter. Ask a local lamp repair shop (and make sure they guarantee their work).

    Lengthening fixtures and matching to their original finishes is very difficult to do. It's best to order the length you need, or failing that, ordering some additional length and shorten as needed (see above).


  • Hardware Glossary

    2-1/8in. Bore: The current standard installation prep - a 2-1/8in. hole drilled through face of door to receive a modern-style "cylinder latch" mechanism.

    Backset: Measurement from edge of door to center of doorknob (and spindle hub where spindle passes through latch).

    Ball-Tip Hinge: A hinge with ball-shaped tips at top and bottom of knuckle; standard for most pre-1940 hinges.

    Bolt: A mechanism that locks a door shut only.

    Builders' Hardware: The historical term for the many various decorative and functional pieces of hardware that are used in outfitting a home.

    Butt Hinge: Hinge in which both leaves are mortised (cut) into the edge of door and frame.

    Casement Adjuster: Allows a casement window to be opened and set in a fixed position (so wind, etc., doesn't blow it closed). Our adjuster is for out-swinging windows only.

    Casement Fastener Strikes:

    • Casement Mortise Strike: fastener strike for out-swinging single-casement window; install with tapered hole pointing down and tapered side towards sash.

    • Casement Extended Mortise Strike: fastener strike for out-swinging single casement window with gap along sash edge due to insulating bead; install with tapered hole pointing down and tapered side towards sash, extending out over gap.

    • Casement Rim Strike: fastener strike for in-swinging single-casement window; install with "hook" extending out and pointing up.

    • Casement Surface Strike: fastener strike for in- or out-swinging pairs of casement windows; install on surface of passive (fixed) sash. Passive side usually fixed with a surface bolt at top and/or bottom.

    Casement Window: A window in which the sash (frame that holds the glass) is hinged on one side to swing open.

    Center-To-Center: Measuring convention that means "from the center location of one hole to the center location of a second hole."

    Commercial-Grade Hardware: Hardware that is made with heavy-duty materials and details to withstand prolonged and extensive use.

    Door Set: A set of two knobs (w/spindle) and two escutcheons for decorative door trim. Latch purchased separately.

    Double-Hung Window: A window with two sashes (frames that hold glass) that slide up and down next to each other.

    Dummy Spindle: A short-threaded square steel rod attached to a metal base that allows knob to be mounted to door with no internal latch mechanism.

    Elbow Catch: Used with pairs of cabinet doors to hold the passive (fixed) side closed while the active side is in use; mounted on the inside surface of passive door.

    Escutcheon: Fancy name for a backplate.

    Fixed-Pin Hinge: A hinge in which the knuckle pin cannot be removed and the two hinge leaves cannot be separated.

    Floating-Pin Hinge: Hinge in which pin has no tip and is suspended in hinge knuckle between two threaded tips; must be unscrewed to remove the pin.

    Grille: A ventilation plate that allows airflow but cannot be opened and closed.

    Half-Mortise Hinge: A hinge with one leaf that mounts on the surface of door, and one leaf that is mortised (cut) into the edge of the door frame. Commonly used where full surface hinges won't fit side-by-side on a narrow frame, or to lessen the amount of hardware showing.

    Key Hole: Hole in door/plate that allows a key or other device access to the inner locking mechanism.

    Keyhole Escutcheon: A separate plate used beneath with a rosette for covering the keyhole bore - works with different knob-keyhole spacings.

    Latch: A mechanism that holds a door shut; does not lock.

    Linfield Brass Bathroom Hardware: Our reproductions of the distinctive San-O-La line of bathware, originally manufactured by the Art Brass Co. of New York during the early 20th century.

    Lock: A mechanism that holds a door shut and offers a locking option.

    Loose-Pin Hinge: A hinge in which the pin in hinge knuckle is attached to one tip and can be easily removed.

    Louver Assembly: The device mounted to a grille that allows airflow to be controlled.

    Marine-Grade Hardware: Hardware that is usually all bronze or brass, to withstand oxidation.

    Molly Bolts/Screws: Known by many names, this generic term can signify any fastener that works by spreading some device on the backside of a wall/panel/ceiling surface to create a hold.

    Mortise: Term used when a rectangular hole or area needs to be cut out of wood to receive a piece of hardware, etc.

    Mortise Lock: A locking latch mechanism that requires a rectangular hole in door edge for installation. Ubiquitous in pre-1940 homes, this type of lock is known by many other names.

    Mortise Tube Latch: A latch mechanism with a rectangular body that requires a rectangular hole in door edge for installation.

    Off-Set Hinge: A hinge that is offset to allow for a door that overlaps its frame.

    Rail: Term used for the horizontal pieces that constitute the top and bottom edges of a door.

    Register: A ventilation grille that can be opened and closed.

    Rim Lock: An old-style "box" lock that was made to mount on the surface of a door instead of being mortised into the edge of the door. Knobs for rim locks typically have one knob with a flared seat on the bottom of the shank (for the lock side).

    Rosette: A circular escutcheon behind a knob.

    San-O-La Bathware: The original trade name under which our Linfield reproductions were made and marketed by the Art Brass Co. of New York in the early 20th century (nearly always marked/signed).

    Sash: The "frame" that holds the glass pane(s) in a window.

    Set Screw: A small screw in the shank of a knob that is tightened to fix the knob on the spindle. Old set-screws varied widely in diameter and thread count.

    Shank: The cylindrical base of a doorknob, which seats in the collar or ferrule on the escutcheon/rosette.

    Spindle: A square steel rod connecting two doorknobs through the latch. The spindle can be threaded or have holes in its side, depending on what type of knob it's used with. Old spindles (and our spindles) are usually 9/32in. (7mm). New spindles are often 8mm (slightly larger). Threaded spindles can be 16tpi (threads per inch), 18tpi or 20tpi. Most new spindles, including ours, are 20tpi.

    Spindle Hub: The device in a lock or latch through which the knob spindle passes to operate the mechanism. The spindle hole in a hub can be oriented "on the square" or "on the diamond" (or "star-broached" if it allows the use of both orientations). Old hubs are typically "on the diamond" (except for Yale locks), while new hubs are typically "on the square." Orientation will impact proper installation angle for knobs that are directional (oval, etc.). Hole size can be 9/32in. (7mm) or 8mm, so proper verification of compatibility is required when using our knobs with other locks or latches.

    Stile: Term for the vertical pieces that constitute the side edges of a door.

    Strike: The protective metal plate installed in doorjamb that receives the latch or lock "tongue" when door is closed. A latch strike is typically T-shaped with a single hole, and a mortise lock strike is typically elongated with two holes (for latch and bolt).

    Surface Bolt: For pairs of doors or windows - a device mounted on the surface of the passive (fixed) side of pair to allow it to remain shut tight while active side is in use.

    Surface Hinge: A hinge that mounts on the face of both door and doorframe.

    Tube Latch: A latch mechanism with tubular body intended to be inserted into a drilled hole in door edge for installation.

  • Lighting Glossary

    Art Glass: Hand-rolled, translucent layers of molten colored glass. Art glass shades cast an incomparable warm and intimate glow, as seen in lantern-style lighting and on handmade Tiffany-style shades.

    Billiard: Pool-table lights. These also work nicely over kitchen islands or counters.

    Bowl-Light Fixture: These fixtures have three or four chains or rods that extend from the canopy and attach to a bowl shade, usually with gravity hooks.

    Canopy: The part of a fixture that actually mounts to the ceiling or wall and covers the junction box to which the fixture attaches.

    Chandelier: A broad term for a hanging ceiling fixture that has multiple arms or lights. (Also see: Bowl-Light Fixture.)

    Cased Glass: Shade finish that gets its name from fused layers of different glass. Usually, colored glass is outside and white glass is inside, to help cast bright light downward. Commonly used on cone shades.

    Etched Glass (aka frosted glass): Shade finish with a "foggy" sort of appearance that reduces glare and softens light.

    Fitter: The "lip" part of a glass shade or globe that attaches to the shade-holder part of the fixture. Common fitter sizes (diameters) are 2-1/4in., 3-1/4in., 4in. and 6in.. Typically, the fitter measures slightly less than these dimensions.

    Flush: A fixture that is close to the ceiling or wall and does not have rods or arms leading to the sockets. (Also see: Pan)

    Low Ceiling: Fixtures for ceilings that are eight feet or lower.

    Pendant: Typically a single pole or chain extending from the ceiling canopy - usually with one light.

    Pan: A ceiling fixture that has a much larger canopy covering the junction box and a minimum of two lights. (Also see: Shower)

    Satin Opal: Shade finish that is etched to further soften and diffuse an opal shade's light.

    Sconce: In general terms, this includes any wall fixture - although the purist definition would define only a candle- or torch-style wall bracket.

    Shade-holder: The part or parts of a fixture into which the "fitter" of the glass shades or globes fit. Most shade-holders have three or four screws that hold the shade in place. Common shade-holder sizes are the same as "fitter" sizes, although they often measure slightly larger than the dimensions listed.

    Shiny Opal: Translucent, glossy milk-white glass that produces an evenly diffused glow, which also helps mask the bulb inside the shade. Very popular, and common to painted shades and schoolhouse-style shades.

    Shower: These are fixtures with a ceiling pan and either chains or rods extending from the pan to the sockets. (At the minimum length; also see: Pan)

    Tinted Glass: Shade finish that adds rich and subtle color to the light from frosted shades.

    Vanity: Wall brackets / sconces suitable for the bathroom.

    Wall Bracket: All of our wall fixtures are included in this category. (Also see: Sconce)

  • House Parts – Our definition

    "House Parts" is our name for hardware and other old-house-inspired stuff - all built with the same quality as our lighting fixtures.

    Our goal is to fill a niche for tasteful, functional, and authentic hardware and other old-house accessories - and to do so with affordable prices. Considering the period-style merchandise generally available, we feel like we're staking out new territory.

    On one end of the spectrum, there's imported and cheaply made brass hardware. Quality is typically poor (uneven at best), functionality and durability are afterthoughts, good taste is absent, and the finish is almost always only polished brass with a lacquer over it. The price - maybe - is good.

    On the other end, many businesses have sprung up that do beautiful work reproducing old-house specialties. But as artisans who essentially create their good work by hand, they offer products that often cost more than most folks can afford.

    We think we've found the middle ground.

Hardware and House Parts

  • Bath Hardware
    What are the brass bathroom hardware finish choices?
    • Brushed Nickel
    • Polished Nickel
    • Polished Chrome
    Which bath hardware options affect the cost?

    As with our Lighting and Interior and Exterior Door Hardware, different options can change the price of the item.

    Costs of Towel Bars and Bath Shelves increase with width, if width choices are available. Also, tempered glass towel rods cost a little more than nickel-plated brass rods.

    Tip: For towel bars with a glass or brass towel rod choice, tempered glass has an uncommon look which blends particularly well with period and contemporary bathrooms.

    What is "rammed porcelain"?

    Forced into moulds under heavy pressure, rammed porcelain results in a dense, solid porcelain that is stronger, heftier, and more durable than common slip-cast porcelain pieces, which are often hollow and lightweight.

    I have some old porcelain towel bar ends that are missing their bracket clips - will your clips fit my bath hardware?

    While our clips are exact reproductions, there were as many different clips in the old days as there were manufacturers of porcelain bathware.

    More than likely, our clips won't fit your old towel bars.

    Some antique porcelain bath accessories won't hold today's large soap, toothbrushes, and toilet paper - will yours?

    We have tweaked the dimensions of our soap dish, toothbrush holder, and toilet paper holder to be compatible with the most common products today - however, this is no guarantee that your favorite brand will be a perfect match.

  • Cabinet Hardware
    What's included in your Cabinet Hardware line, and what makes yours different?

    We offer a broad selection of cabinet hardware designs from the late 1800s to the 1950s. Within our collections of Drawer Pulls, Knobs, Bin Pulls, Furniture Hardware, Latches, and Hinges, you'll find hardware suitable for Victorian to Mid-Century cabinet and furniture styles.

    Much of the cabinet hardware we offer is exclusive to us, a good selection of period-authentic replicas with traditional details like slotted oval- or flat-head mounting screws, loose pins in hinges, and sturdy brass castings. All are carefully recreated from original antiques. Rejuvenation exclusives are available in various finishes designed to complement our lighting.

    We also carry select cabinet hardware from other manufacturers. Some are authentic period designs, others are looser interpretations of period styles, but they all are among the most popular designs we've sold for years in our Portland store. Finishes vary from product to product; many will also coordinate well with our lighting.

    Are the Cabinet Hardware hinges sold per pair?

    Our exclusive cabinet hinges are offered in six finishes, and sold and priced per pair. We also carry a selection of other hinges, some packaged in pairs, others sold individually.

    I'm looking for offset cabinet hinges; any suggestions?

    Offset hinges were first seen regularly on the Hoosier cabinets and really came on strong in the 1920s - there were and are so many variations it's hard to know where to start.

    We currently offer one style, and you may also want to keep an eye on our restored antique hinges as well, if you're after something unique.

  • Cover Plates and Switch Plates
    Which Cover plate do I use with a round-knob dimmer switch?

    Round knob dimmer switches should be installed with standard toggle plates.

    The rectangular opening in the plate will be hidden behind the knob of your dimmer.

    What types of switches and plates would have been original in my old house?

    Along with the development of knob and tube wiring came an explosion of specialty wall-mounted switches, receptacles, and indicator devices as companies fought to establish dominance in the new arena of electrical convenience. The majority of these innovative experiments are now obsolete.

    Nearly all these devices, however, were accompanied by the same solid-brass beveled Cover plates that we reproduce. If you stick with push-button switches and duplex outlets, you really can't go wrong. And don't forget to consider the color of the devices that your plates will mount over. Most early switches and receptacles were black or brown. The white and ivory ones common today were a later development.

    What were the typical metal finishes on Cover plates earlier this century?
    The most common period finishes on Cover plates were Polished Brass, Brushed Brass, Dull Brass, and Polished Nickel. Polished Brass could have been lacquered or unlacquered, and Dull Brass was often just a metallic paint (which saved the manufacturer the cost of polishing).
    What can I do to help the finishes on my Cover plates age gracefully?
    No protective finish will last forever. However, to help ease your plates through time, give them an occasional waxing with a Johnson's-type paste wax or a neutral shoe polish.
  • Door Hardware
    How Do I Choose The Right Pocket Door Set?

    We offer 4 kinds of Pocket Door Hardware Sets to fit most single and double pocket door installations:

    • Double Privacy Sets are used for pairs of pocket doors that meet in the middle of the door frame, and need to lock together. These sets have a thumbturn inside and a keyhole outside for access.
    • Single Keyhole Passage Sets are non-locking sets for single pocket doors. The keyhole on the outside plate provides the look of an old pocket door set, and isn't functional.
    • Single Plain Passage Sets are identical to the above set, but without the "just for looks" keyhole.
    • Single Privacy Sets are for lockable single pocket doors. These sets have a thumbturn inside and a keyhole outside for access, and come with a strike.
    Will Your Door Hardware Fit My Home's New Doors?

    Although our Interior Door Sets are designed to cover the 2 1/8in. bore commonly pre-bored into newer doors, there may be other factors which require further discussion.

    We also recommend that your carpenter has our Exterior Door Sets in-hand before preparing the door for fitting.

    If you have questions or doubts, please tell us more about your situation before ordering. Email Customer Service or call 888-401-1900.

    Will Your New Door Hardware Replace My Old Door Hardware?

    For interior doors, our doorknobs and backplates are compatible with most old mortise locks. Exterior doors, however, will likely require retrofitting by an experienced carpenter.

    Generally, replacement door hardware won't necessarily fit or cover all the holes drilled for the previous door hardware - there wasn't and isn't any one universally employed configuration, especially on old doors. We suggest hanging onto your old mortise locks, tube latches, and strike plates until you've got our new stuff in hand.

    Dimensions which might help you check for new/old hardware compatibility on interior doors:

    • Keyhole-to-knob spacing is 2-1/4in., center-to-center; 9/32in. spindle set "on the diamond" for correct knob orientation (especially helpful for oval knobs).
    • The spindles are a standard 5/16in. thick. Longer spindles will probably be required for doors over 1-3/8in. thick. Contact Customer Service for longer spindles.
    I Have Thicker-Than-Average Doors; Will Your Interior Door Sets Fit?
    If your doors are thicker than 1-3/8in., you probably need a spindle 1/4in. or 1/2in. longer than the 3-1/2in. inch spindle supplied with our Interior Door Sets. Please email or call Customer Service at 888-401-1900 for assistance.
    What Interior Door Set Should I Use? Your Designs Don't Look Familiar.

    The Wentworth (originally called Cleo when first manufactured by Russell and Erwin) is simple and elegant - with a universal appeal - and will complement most interiors and other hardware without clashing.

    If you want door hardware with even less detail, the Benson, Putman, and Adams are good choices.

    Can I Use Your Interior Door Sets on Screen Doors?

    It's easier to use one of our Screen Door Hardware Sets, but, yes, some wood frame screen doors will take our Interior Door Sets, provided the door is thick and strong enough to accept the larger latches, and that you're comfortable with retrofitting.

    This may be a job for your contractor if you haven't installed door hardware before, or if you're replacing existing screen door hardware with ours.

    For Confident Do-It-Yourself Folks:

    First, make sure the screen door casing is wide enough to accommodate the backplate of the Interior Door Set you want.

    Once you've got your door set in hand, you'll need to cut the spindle, as screen doors are considerably thinner than most interior doors. Make sure you don't damage the spindle threads; doorknobs screw down onto threads for secure fastening.

    And finally, you'll likely need to purchase a separate screen door latch which is much smaller than an interior door tube latch. Also, know that screen door latches for wood doors typically don't come in a wide variety of finishes. Currently, we don't sell screen door latches online, but many hardware shops carry them or can order them for you.

    My old door hinges are missing ball tips. Can I buy replacement ball tips from you?

    Regrettably, the ball tips on our Door Hinges won't fit other door hinges. We don't sell ball tips separately.

    The ball tips thread on the bottom of the door hinge, and are permanently fixed with Loctite brand adhesive. On the top of the door hinge, they are fixed on the pin.

    What are Bore Inserts?

    A Bore Insert is needed to fill the wide 2-1/8in. hole in most pre-drilled new wood doors, and some old wood doors that have been retrofitted for new hardware.

    Wood doors with a 2-1/8in. diameter hole drilled through them require an optional Bore Insert for our "Rosette" Interior Door Sets (that is, those with smaller round backplates).

    Replacing door hardware on existing interior wood doors?

    Before ordering, remove door hardware and measure the diameter of the holes bored through each door. A hole 2in. or smaller does not require an optional Bore Insert.

    Ordering door hardware for new interior wood doors?

    Most doors bought "off the rack" or custom ordered are usually pre-drilled with a 2-1/8in. bore, and will require an optional Bore Insert.

    Door Prep - a Boring Subject

    Installing a door set involves drilling holes in your door - holes that will vary depending on the type of door set you have.

    Most door sets in pre-1930s houses were of the mortise lock type. These distinctive box-like locks were installed in a large hole, or mortise, in the edge of the door. Mortise locks allowed for locking with a key or thumbturn, and utilized independent plates and knobs connected through the door with a steel spindle.

    Today, most door hardware uses a cylinder latch designed to mount in a 2-1/8in. hole, or bore. Cylinder latches are built as a whole with their plates and knobs, and cannot be intermixed with older knob-and-spindle type door sets.

    The cylinder latch was introduced in 1924 by Schlage, and by the late-1940s had pretty much displaced traditional mortise locks as the standard for door hardware. Because they remain the industry standard to this day, many new doors come pre-bored to accept cylinder latches.

    Our door sets have a foot in the past and a foot in the present. Our door trim is of the knob-and-spindle type just like old hardware, and will work with new or existing mortise locks, as well as easy-to-install tube latches. Tube latches mount in a simple hole drilled into the edge of the door. Our sets are also designed to hide or accommodate a standard 2-1/8" bore, although it is preferable to install them on unbored doors.

    And for you true old-house enthusiasts, we offer a unique and proprietary privacy system. This system uses dual tube latches with a single joining faceplate. When installed, our privacy system looks and operates just like the old thumbturn-type mortise locks used to.

    What are Door Hardware Passage Sets?

    A passage door set is interior door hardware with a latch, and no lock.

    While ordering Interior Door Sets, select an optional Tube Latch for a passage function.

    What are Privacy Bolts?

    As used in our Privacy Set, Privacy Bolts are locks which are activated by a thumb-turn.

    Privacy Bolts are typically used on the inside of bathroom doors. Select the optional privacy bolt when ordering our Interior Door Sets.

    What are Door Hardware Privacy Systems?

    Privacy Systems lock from one side using a thumb-turn, and are common features on bathroom doors.

    This innovative and exclusive design looks like a mortise lock when installed, and mounts in 1in. standard bores (through door's edge). Included are 1 Tube Latch (top), 1 Privacy Bolt (bottom), and 2 Door Strike Plates.

    Order a Privacy Set separately for your own existing hardware, or select the Privacy Set option while ordering our Interior Door Sets. For emergency access from outside the door, select a keyhole option for one backplate while ordering.

    What are Dummy Door Sets?

    When doorknobs, levers and backplates are purely decorative and don't turn or operate a latch, you have a dummy set, as is sometimes used on closet doors.

    If you need this option, select our Dummy Spindles when ordering Interior Door Sets. Dummy Spindles are covered by the backplate, and remain hidden once door hardware is installed.

    Doors with Dummy Spindles may also need a Ball Catch in order to stay closed.

    What are Tube Latches?

    When you turn a doorknob or lever to open a door, you're turning a spring-tension latch.

    Our Tube Latches have the old-fashioned tubular body, which is installed into a hole drilled in the door's edge. They're the standard 2.375in. (2-3/8in.) backset, and can be ordered with our Interior Door Sets.

    What are Ball Catches?

    Ball Catches are used for doors which are opened by pulling or pushing. When the door is closed, spring tension pushes a brass ball into a notched brass plate in the doorjamb.

    Ball Catches are typically used with Dummy Spindles on closet and utility doors which don't have tube latches.

    What's Door Hardware backset?

    Backset is the measurement from the door's edge to the center of the hole bored for the doorknobs.

    All lock and latch options for our Interior Door Sets have a standard 2-3/8in. backset.

    Mortise locks for our Exterior Door Sets come in either 2-1/2in. or 2-3/4in. backsets.

    Tip: Before replacing an existing lock or latch with a new one, check if the backset measurements are the same. If they are different, you'll need to retrofit your door for the new hardware. This can be a difficult task, and may be best left to an experienced contractor.

    What are Mortise Locks and Latches?

    Mortise locks are locking latch mechanisms that require a rectangular hole in the door edge for installation.

    Mortise latches have the same shape, but only a latch function. They don't lock. In old homes, some interior doors will have only mortise latches installed.

    Common in pre-1940 homes, and sometimes hard to find new, this type of lock is known by many other names. We supply a full mortise lock with a locking cylinder in every Exterior Door Set.

    Tip: Mortise locks are durable, heavy, and, if you have old ones, worth keeping. Common problems such as weak latch tension are typically due to worn-out pins or springs. These can (and should) be replaced by an experienced locksmith who is familiar with mortise locks.

    What are Dummy Spindles?

    Dummy Spindles are used to mount a doorknob or lever that doesn't operate a latch - a feature sometimes seen on closet doors, for example.

    Doors with this feature may require a Ball Catch in order to stay closed.

    What Should I Know about Door Hardware Codes?

    ADA requires levers instead of doorknobs, and some commercial doors require closers or specific kinds of door hinges, which we don't sell. Public and commercial spaces often must follow detailed requirements.

    It's best to check local codes or ask your contractor, but more often than not, our Door Hardware should work fine for most applications.

    What is Builder's Hardware?

    "Builder's Hardware" is a traditional term used in old hardware catalogs which describes our various collections of hardware.

    Instead of looking for "Builder's Hardware" on the site, just look for the category of product you want (Door Hinges, Door Strikes/Strike Plates, Casement Window Fasteners, Sash Locks, etc.

    What are Door Strike Plates?

    Strike plates or door strikes are the protective metal plate installed in the door jamb that receives the latch or lock "tongue" when door is closed.

    A latch strike plate is typically T-shaped with a single hole, and a mortise lock strike, like our selection of brass Door Strikes, is typically elongated with two holes (for latch and bolt).

    Any Interior Door Set ordered with either passage or privacy options comes with matching strike plates. All Exterior Door Sets, regardless of options ordered, come with a matching strike plate.

    What are Spindles?

    A spindle is the metal rod that doorknobs and levers are mounted on.

    Regular spindles (as opposed to dummy spindles) extend through the door and latch to the doorknob on the other side. Once backplates and doorknobs are installed, spindles are completely hidden.

    Antique door hardware was made with many spindle varieties: threaded, plain, and split, to name a few. Our 9/32in. square steel spindles are all threaded 20tpi (threads per inch) - the most common size, and the standard threading for most new doorknobs designed for threaded spindles.

    Except for the Dummy Door Set, all Interior Door Sets come with spindles.

  • Drapery Hardware
    In what widths are Drapery Sets available?

    Please enter width in decimal form. To convert fractions to decimals, divide the numerator by the denominator. For example, use 48.125 instead of 48-1/8in.

    Turned Final, Mushroom Finial, Deco Final, and Ball Finial Drapery Rod Sets: Order up to 144in. wide. Up to 72in., drapery rods are one single, continuous piece. Between 72in. and 144in. requires two curtain rods joined in the middle, and includes one additional center support bracket (for a total of three brackets). Cost beyond 72in. is an additional $15/foot.

    The Inside-Mount, Outside-Mount, and Concealed-Mount Cafe Sets can be ordered up to 60in. wide, and have one, single rod.

    How do I measure for cut-to-order Drapery Rods?

    Turned Final, Mushroom Finial, Deco Final, and Ball Finial Drapery Rod Sets: Measured to the nearest 1/8in. of the overall width from finial tip to finial tip.

    Inside-Mount, and Concealed-Mount Cafe Sets: Measure to nearest 1/8in. the inside overall width across window casing.

    Outside-Mount Cafe Sets: Measure to nearest 1/8in. the outside overall width across window casing.

    What do Drapery Sets include?

    Turned Final, Mushroom Finial, Deco Final, and Ball Finial Drapery Rod Sets include 2 Finials, 2 End Brackets, Cut-to-order Drapery/Curtain Rod, Slotted-head brass screws (finished to match)

    Inside-Mount, Outside-Mount, and Concealed-Mount Cafe Sets include 2 End Brackets, Cut-to-order Drapery/Curtain Rod, Slotted-head brass screws (finished to match). Curtain Rings with Eyelets or with Clips may be ordered with Drapery Sets or individually.

  • Light Bulbs
  • Medicine Cabinets
    What is "certified" solid wood?

    Wood certified by the Forest Stewardship Council is available internationally and is gaining wide recognition as architects, designers, home builders/remodelers, carpenters, and manufacturers choose to protect resources by specifying and using certified forest products.

    The Trademark of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) indicates that the wood used to make the product comes from a forest which is well managed according to strict environmental, social and economic standards. The forest of origin has been independently inspected and evaluated according to the principles and criteria for forest management agreed and approved by the Forest Stewardship Council. FSC is an international, non-profit association whose membership comprises environmental and social groups and progressive forestry and wood retail companies working in partnership to improve forest management worldwide.

    The wood in our Medicine Cabinets comes from these "natural working forests"; once a tree is felled, it's not replanted by man or machine. The forest floor is naturally reseeded by the trees left standing, ensuring the diversity of species and a process that's better for our water, wildlife, and us human beings.

    What is ogee detail?
    Ogee is an "S" curve profile, seen in various forms of finish carpentry. On our medicine cabinet doors, the ogee profile is cut into the inner edge of the door, where it borders the mirror. In this case, ogee detail functions as a visual transition between the mirror and the wood.
    What is stile and rail construction?

    Stile and rail more or less defines the way our medicine cabinet doors look and how they're put together. Each top and bottom board butts against the adjacent side boards to create a solid, traditional appearance.

    For a visual aid, if you live in an older house with solid-wood paneled interior doors, look at the corners and casing for examples of how stile and rail construction looks. It's quite sturdy.

    What are fully mortised ball-tip hinges?

    Mortised means the cabinet door and frame have been recessed where the hinges fasten; the hinges fit flush into the woodwork. When the door is shut, all that's visible of the hinge is its knuckle.

    Ball Tips are a detail common to older cabinet and door hinges. Ours thread into the top and bottom of the knuckle.

    Does Rejuvenation custom-build Medicine cabinets in other sizes?
    We're unable to produce custom-sized Medicine cabinets for you. We measured many old, salvaged cabinets and stuck with what we saw most often. We've partnered with a local craftsman and strive to keep prices and lead-times reasonable. You may want to contact a cabinetmaker if you're interested in variations on typical dimensions.
    Can I buy cabinet parts and plans from Rejuvenation, or contact the craftsman you're working with?
    You may purchase the hardware separately, but we can't sell the other cabinet parts or plans, or provide the cabinetmaker's name.
    Why are the medicine cabinets pre-primed?

    Our medicine cabinets are mostly poplar wood, which doesn't allow stain to penetrate. We've pre-primed them to be ready for your paint color.

    Generally, poplar looks splotchy and uneven if you try to stain it. Not recommended.

    How are Rejuvenation's Medicine Cabinets built and how do they compare with others?

    Rejuvenation's traditional Medicine Cabinets are unmatched in quality of materials, craftsmanship, and period-authentic historical accuracy.

    They're meticulously detailed and handcrafted from real wood - primed, paint-grade poplar with absolutely no MDF or particleboard. All mouldings, trim, and casings are solid wood, the back which recesses into the wall (on inset models) or which rests against the wall (on surface mount models) is solid plywood.

    With each model, we include a 1-1/4in. beveled mirror, two glass shelves, and fully mortised solid brass ball-tip hinges in your choice of finishes. Optional choices of cabinet knobs, pulls, latches, and catches - also in your choice of finishes - can be ordered separately.

    Can I install the medicine cabinet myself?

    We try to be as thorough as possible with our instructions, but the difficulty involved is relative to your experience and comfort with installation projects.

    Surface-mount cabinets will be easier to install than insert-mount cabinets, which must recess into a hole in your bathroom wall. If your wall is stripped down to the studs, an insert mount is certainly easier than tearing out the wall to retrofit. If you do need to retrofit, or if you just feel overwhelmed by the project, we suggest calling a professional carpenter.

    Tip: All screws should be hand-tightened.

    How are inset-mount are surface-mount medicine cabinets different?

    Most antique medicine cabinets were recessed into the wall, or inset mounted. If your bathroom wall is stripped to the studs, or if you plan to cut a hole in the wall to retrofit the cabinet, choose inset mount. However, understand that retrofitting a new cabinet into an existing wall calls for experienced carpentry skills.

    Medicine cabinets which are hung directly on a wall are surface mounted. No recessing of the "box" is required.

    Our Medicine Cabinets are available in a surface-mount option.

    Surface-mount medicine cabinets have a simple box enclosure, and extend out 5 to 6 inches. Keep this in mind when choosing wall brackets for above or beside one, and read about our deep projection option.

    What if I've got a corner sink and want to install the cabinet above it, flush to the wall?
    If you have a traditional corner sink where the sink's sides mount to the wall at 90 degrees, we don't recommend using our Medicine Cabinets, mainly because the projection would likely cause you to bump your head every time you used the sink. A hanging mirror and some nearby shelves would be better, if this is your situation.
    What are the box dimensions for inset-mount medicine cabinets?
    Our inset-mount medicine cabinets all have a recessed box size of 18.75in. W x 23.75in. H x 3.75in. D, and rough-in measurements of 19.25in. W x 24.25in. H x 4in. D.
    Does Rejuvenation offer other cabinet styles?
    We won't rule out making other medicine cabinet styles some day, but we've gotten good response from what we currently offer. We're sticking with these styles for now; however, if yours is a design which you feel we must consider, let us know.
  • More About Lighting and Hardware Finishes
    Which finishes are right for my home?

    Most antique lighting and hardware, regardless of era, was built in a choice of finishes, as our exclusive products are today. The "right" finish suits your decor and taste, and the product's location.

    See which finishes apply to lighting, and which apply to hardware, or read on for selection tips.

    Look at the vintage hardware in your home. Antique door hardware, switch plates and Cover plates give clues to which original finishes or patinas you can match.

    Polished and Brushed Nickel were used in virtually all kitchens and bathrooms until the mid 1930s when Polished Chrome became popular.

    Polished Brass was the Victorian era favorite. It suited the fastidiousness of a time when the middle class was defined as "households with 1-2 servants" who polished the brass, among other things. If fastidiousness and servants don't describe your household, know that Lacquered Polished Brass needs no further polishing.

    Brushed Brass, the standard of the Craftsman era, Old Brass, Burnished Antique Brass, and Oil-Rubbed Bronze resemble the natural patina unlacquered brass acquires over time, as does Antique Copper for old copper-plated brass lighting.

    Bronze Gilt, alone or combined with Polished Nickel, was a popular mid-century lighting finish, as seen in our Mid-Century Modern collection.

    Because of their durability, Nickel, Chrome, and painted finishes like Black Enamel remain traditional outdoor lighting finishes.

    What's the difference between Polished Nickel and Polished Chrome?

    There are three main differences: authenticity, color tone, and aging characteristics.

    Polished Nickel was the standard finish in kitchens and bathrooms from 1900 to 1930, while Polished Chrome was not widely available until the late 1920s. Nickel has a warm, amber tone while chrome has a colder, blue hue. Both finishes are a durable surface plating and age well. Nickel, however, can develop a slightly cloudy tarnish over time, while chrome is generally tarnish-free.

  • Push-Button Switches
    How do Push-Button Dimmer Switches work?

    On our dimmers, the top button acts as an on/off switch, while the lower button rotates to adjust light levels.

    Note: Dimmer switches are for incandescent fixtures only, and are not for use with fluorescent fixtures or ceiling fans. Also, two dimmer switches cannot fit side-by-side in a two-gang electrical box.

    Can I use two dimmer switches to control one light?
    No. Only one dimmer switch should be used in a three-way circuit.
    How authentic are push-button switches?

    Push-button wall switches were commonly available by the turn of the century, and the toggle switch followed a little later.

    Other styles in the early days of electricity included a variety of surface-mounted wall switches on round, wooden, or white porcelain bases. Folks used pull chains, turn-keys, rotary knobs, round levers, and other types of switches - all now unavailable.

    Push-button switches are as authentic as it gets. Push-button dimmers are not original, though surface-mounted rheostats weren't uncommon.

    What's a three-way switch?

    A pair of three-way switches allows one light to be operated from two locations - like the top and bottom of a stairway.

    They must be installed in pairs, and they require appropriate wiring. A three-way dimmer can substitute for one switch in a three-way pair to allow light-level control. A four-way switch creates a third location.

    Wiring conditions vary greatly - especially in old houses. Consult a licensed electrician on unusual installations.

    How do I install a three- or four-way switch?

    Multiple-location switches require very specific wiring. And, depending on the switch/fixture arrangements, they can send even the brightest minds into dim-witted paralysis.

    Most basic home-wiring books cover this topic in some detail - and include wiring diagrams for various configurations.

    Can two dimmer switches fit side-by-side in a single box?

    In many junction boxes, two dimmer switches will fit side-by-side. But if your boxes are older or unusual, it may be too small to accomodate more than one.

    A dimmer switch should fit alongside the other push-button switches we sell.

    Can your switches be used with low-voltage wiring?
    Our dimmer switches cannot be used with low-voltage wiring. However, the regular push-button switches can be used.

Light Bulbs

  • Which light bulbs should I use?
    About Fixture Wattage Ratings

    Each fixture has a maximum wattage rating (listed in the fixture's Specifications) based on the use of standard incandescent light bulbs. Inappropriate bulbs can discolor metal finishes, deteriorate electrical parts, and start fires. We do not guarantee against damage caused by improper light bulbs.

    Compact Fluorescent Light Bulbs

    Screw-in CFLs can easily be used in most of our fixtures.

    GU24 CFLs are highly energy-efficient compact fluorescent bulbs, and can be used in fixtures that are built with a GU24 base.

    Customers Living in Cold Winter Climates: CFLs take longer to reach full brightness in very cold outdoor temperatures. Our GU24 bulbs have a "start rating" temperature of -20F.

    Decorative Incandescent Bulbs

    Some of our lights look their romantic best with the delightfully dim reproduction Carbon Filament Light Bulbs we sell. Small appliance-type bulbs also provide a soft light without a jarring appearance. However, smaller bulbs burn hotter, so we strongly recommend using less than the listed maximum wattage with appliance-type bulbs.

    "Decor" bulbs, like those with candle-flame shapes, are made for use in "tips up" position only. Never install pointed bulbs tips down. Tip: Antique fixtures with exposed down-pointed sockets were designed to use with the globe-shaped light bulbs we sell.

Lighting Fixtures

  • Custom vs. Special Order Lighting
    How is "customized" lighting different from "special order" lighting?

    With choices of metal finish, shade or art glass color, fixture length, switch, vaulted/sloped ceiling mount, and more, you can customize our light fixtures to meet your specific needs.

    If those aren't enough lighting options for you, we might still be able to help.

    Special-width arms, unique finishes, hybrid finishes, and other design changes are possible to add using existing lighting components. These "special order" fixtures have unique pricing that's determined by the parts used, and the extent of modifications.

    Special order questions? Contact Customer Service via 888-401-1900 or email to talk about your design.

  • Fixture Length
    Can I use your lights on sloped/vaulted ceilings?

    For an additional charge, most single-pole pendant lighting can be built to accommodate sloped ceilings.

    Fixtures which hang from a single chain, like the Imperial, automatically adjust to sloped ceilings, so no vault mount is needed. However, be sure to tell us that you're installing a chain fixture on a sloped ceiling, so that we can adjust the fixture length accordingly.

    Multi-armed bowl lights like the Caruthers can be modified, but it's a very different vault mechanism from the ones pictured above, and it isn't available online. In fact, it changes the fixture's appearance so much that we think most folks would be much happier with pendant lighting instead. Still curious? Email or call Customer Service at 888-401-1900 for information.

    Tip: When ordering vaulted ceiling fixtures at a specific overall length, expect up to a 1" variance in overall length due to the varying pitches of sloped ceilings.

    Can I shorten or lengthen your lighting myself?

    A number of our fixtures can be shortened prior to installation, with varying degrees of difficulty. However, you should know that mechanically altering a light will void its warranty.

    If you are still willing to assume the risk, we've separated these alterations into two categories, below. Please proceed with caution. Rejuvenation is not responsible for fixture damages in any way.

    For confident, careful, handy do-it-yourselfers or their contractors:

    Chain Link Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Fernhill. Remove the unwanted chain links with a chain spreader, pull the extra wire through the ceiling canopy, and trim the wire.

    Single-Pole Pendant Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Coronado, which hang from one rigid length of tubing. Remove the ceiling canopy, disassemble as needed to pull the wire out from the allthread, and use a hacksaw to cut the tubing and allthread pipe. Do not cut the allthread pipe with the wire still inside.

    Better left to your local lamp repair shop:

    Pendant Lighting with Loop-to-Loop connections: e.g., fixtures like the Brightwood. Tricky for DIY alterations. Ask a local lamp repair shop (and make sure they guarantee their work).

    Multiple-pole Lighting: e.g., fixtures like the Jantzen. Quite difficult to alter. Ask a local lamp repair shop (and make sure they guarantee their work).

    Lengthening fixtures and matching to their original finishes is very difficult to do. It's best to order the length you need, or failing that, ordering some additional length and shorten as needed (see above).

    Can I order lighting shorter than minimum length?
    Sorry, but no. Our lighting minimum lengths are based on engineering, manufacturing, and safety realities. A fixture's minimum length is the shortest overall length that we can build.
    Can you build lights for really high ceilings?

    Yes, indeed. Whether for a two-story foyer in a large home or a sprawling, multi-story hotel interior, we'll build your ceiling fixture to the length you specify.

    To determine your fixture's length, measure from the ceiling down to the lowest point you want your fixture to hang, shade(s) included.

    For extra length beyond the range shown with each fixture, we charge $15 per foot (or part of a foot), per each drop. For example, a Rose City would cost 1 x $15.00 per foot over 48in., but a Caruthers would cost 4 x $15.00, or $60.00 per foot over 41in.

    For high ceilings that require lighting lengths 80-90in. or longer, we add a joint to fixtures that use round or square tubing. Tubing joints help long lights hang straight, and they reduce the risk of shipping damage.

    What is "standard" length?

    Around here, there's no such thing as an all-purpose "standard" fixture length. Read on to see why this is a good thing.

    Antique lighting lengths varied tremendously, and we choose to honor tradition and customer choice with custom reproduction lighting that is built to order. Simply put, this means that you tailor your fixtures to suit your needs.

    The overall length you choose depends on how and where you plan to use the light, as well as on your own comfort with it. See How do I decide on an overall length? for help.

    Tips: The "length shown" specs on each fixture are actually a bit longer than most installations require, because we like to minimize the number of times we have to ding customers for extra-length charges ($15 per additional foot or part of a foot.)

    Why do you use decimal inches online?

    In order to do calculations online, we have to use decimal inches.

    We realize most folks - like us - don't measure in decimals, so we thought this handy cheat sheet might help:

    1/8 = .125

    1/4 = .25

    1/3 = .33

    3/8 = .375

    1/2 = .5

    5/8 = .625

    2/3 = .66

    3/4 = .75

    7/8 = .875

    How do I decide on an overall length?

    In general, consider a span of 80in. to 90in. from the floor to the bottom of the light. Adjust the span based on ceiling height and room conditions, e.g., if the light illuminates a table or other furniture setting, or if you'll walk underneath it.

    More general lighting length tips:

    • Lower fixtures create more intimacy, higher fixtures are less noticeable, and taller ceilings may require more height from the floor.
    • A quick cardboard and string mock-up can help you determine a comfortable length.
    • Enter lighting length measurements in decimal whole or half inches. For example, you'd enter 36-1/2 as 36.5 online.

    Lighting length recommendations for specific rooms:

    Dining room lighting: Dining room tables are typically 31in. high. In most cases, dining room lighting should hang 35in. above the table, or 66in. to 76in. from the floor. If you're really unsure, err towards a longer length which can be shortened on site if absolutely necessary.

    Kitchen island and counter lighting: Work spaces need focused task lighting. Hanging pendant lights 72in. to 76in. from the floor provides illumination and head room, although tall folks may want even shorter fixtures. Unless your kitchen is small, island and counter task lighting shouldn't be your primary light source. Consider the Jefferson, Grand Avenue, and Eastbank. These high-wattage ceiling fixtures work with wall and pendant lighting to provide complete kitchen illumination.

    Pool/Billiards table lighting: Regulation pool tables are built to a height of 29 1/4in. to 31in.. Billiards lighting like the Whitaker, Abelard, Crystal Springs, and Scholls Ferry traditionally hangs between 60in. and 62in. from the floor. (Some sources quote a strict 31in. above the table.) Use floor, wall, or smaller ceiling fixtures provide the remaining light needed to navigate the game room.

  • GU24 Compact Fluorescent Lighting
    What is a GU24 base?

    In energy-efficient lighting fixtures, the GU24 socket and base system replaces the common Edison socket and screw-in bulb base.

    GU24 bulbs have 2 pins which connect to the base with a twist-and-lock connection. Screw-in CFLs and incandescent bulbs cannot be used in GU24 fixtures.

    CFLs with a GU24 base connect directly to the power line, and they are functionally equivalent to screw-in CFLs.

    Is all Rejuvenation lighting available with the GU24 option?

    Any light that we can build with GU24 technology while remaining true to the fixture's design will eventually be available with the GU24 option. (The Burnside is one example of a period design that would lose much of its period character if altered for GU24.)

    Most of our reproductions will accommodate GU24 technology without much fuss, and we'll gradually be adding this option to fixtures online.

    If you'd like the GU24 option on a fixture not yet offered online, we can probably build it for you. Email or call Customer Service at 888-401-1900.

    How does GU24 compact fluorescent lighting save money and energy?

    According to ENERGY STAR reports, if every American household replaced just one light bulb with an ENERGY STAR qualified compact fluorescent bulb, we would:

    • save enough energy to light more than 3 million homes for a year.
    • save more than $600 million in annual energy costs.
    • prevent greenhouse gases equivalent to the emissions of more than 800,000 cars.
    • use about 75% less energy than standard incandescent bulbs (CFLs last up to 10 times longer.)
    • save about $30 or more in electricity costs over the life of each compact fluorescent bulb.
    • produce about 75% less heat, which helps cuts energy costs associated with home cooling.
    Do compact fluorescent bulbs contain mercury?

    CFLs, including GU24 bulbs, contain a minuscule amount of mercury - about 5 milligrams. Mercury helps make compact fluorescent bulbs energy efficient.

    However, compare the power plant emissions over the lifetime of an incandescent bulb to a CFL. Using an incandescent bulb will release an average of 13 mg of mercury into the environment. CFLs will contribute a paltry 3.5mg over their much longer lifetimes.

    Any compact fluorescent bulb should still be recycled or disposed of according to local guidelines. Contact your local municipal solid waste agency or visit

    Tip: Our local store customers can bring their used CFLs in to any of our store locations. We'll get them to a recycler.

  • Lighting Finish Choices
    Read About Our Lighting Finishes Online
    or order a set of finish tiles
  • UL Labels and Requirements
    What does UL mean?

    Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) is a nationally recognized, nonprofit safety-testing agency for the US. UL is also affiliated with the Underwriters' Laboratories of Canada (CUL).

    The National Electrical Code, as well as laws in the majority of states, requires that lamps and fixtures be tested by a recognized, independent safety-testing agency before they can be legally sold and installed. Electricians in some areas will refuse to install non-UL fixtures.

    When shopping for lamps and fixtures, look for the term "UL Listed." And don't be fooled by statements like "All fixtures are manufactured from UL-approved components."

    Our fixtures conform to UL standards, are tested as a complete unit, and bear the UL label. A few offer period-authentic options like twisted lamp cord, and so are not UL-approved (which is noted on the products themselves).

    Do I need to use UL damp location lights in a bathroom?

    No - but local codes do vary (and change), so check with your electrician.

    Tip: None of our lights are designed, recommended, or safe for installation directly inside showers.

    What is the difference between UL damp and wet locations?

    Engineering specifications aside, UL damp-location lighting is designed to operate safely in outdoor locations that are protected from the direct elements, such as a porch. Damp-location lighting is not designed to withstand constant or significant moisture.

    UL wet-location lighting can be used almost anywhere - on unprotected exterior walls, along a garden path, atop columns or fence posts. Wet-location lights are designed to be reasonably watertight; they require a seal around the base, canopy, or bracket to protect the electrical service from moisture.